Costa Rica Road Trip (Part III): Monteverde’s Cloud Forest

High in Costa Rica’s mountainous region lies the enchanting Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, where misty clouds weave through towering trees and vibrant greenery. Monteverde—which directly translates to ‘Green Mountain’—is home to an astonishing variety of plants, animals, and birds, including the elusive resplendent quetzal. This biodiverse paradise offers a magical experience for nature lovers. Whether you’re hiking along lush trails, spotting rare wildlife, or walking across hanging bridges, Monteverde’s cloud forest is a breathtaking reminder of the wonders of our natural world and a refreshingly cool retreat from the warmer, tropical areas of the country.

Embracing Serenity During Our Stay at Casas Jaguar

Nestled in the misty mountains of Monteverde, Casas Jaguar offered us a serene retreat in the heart of Costa Rica’s cloud forest. We stayed for three nights, surrounded by lush greenery and the calls of exotic birds. Located between the city center and the most popular attractions of the area, this Airbnb is the perfect blend of comfort and nature. It is inspired by Nordic architecture and consists of three independent houses, each raised on pillars that make it feel like you’re floating amid the treetops.

The house has ample space, including a fully equipped kitchen, cozy living room, dining area, and a lofted bedroom. There is a wood-burning fireplace in case it gets chilly at night. After a full day of activities, it was wonderful to return to a bath and be able to make a home-cooked meal in our kitchen.

Mornings began with fresh coffee on the balcony as we watched quetzels and other beautiful birds flit through the trees, while evenings were spent unwinding in the cool mountain air and watching the sunset.

The sounds were so unique and incredible…

I expected to see hummingbirds at the Monteverde Cloud Forest National Park (more on that soon), but it was a lovely surprise to spot many of them pollinating the flowers alongside the bees right at our Airbnb doorstep. I even saw a Resplendent Quetzal, which caught my eye with its iridescent plumage of metallic blues, greens, and reds.

If you’re looking for a peaceful escape with easy access to Monteverde’s trails and wildlife, Casas Jaguar is a stay you won’t forget!

⚠️ One thing to note about this Airbnb is the very steep driveway. As I detailed in my first post in this series, renting a 4×4 vehicle is a definite plus when driving in Costa Rica—a must for Monteverde, in my opinion. We did not have one, and our car was making terrible sounds when we drove uphill, causing us to cross our fingers in hopes of making it to the top. When arriving at Casa Jaguar we stalled and started to roll down the driveway, and it made us nervous to enter and exit the property for the remainder of our stay.

Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve

Did you know that cloud forests make up only 1% of the world’s woodlands? Nestled in the misty Tilarán mountain range of Costa Rica, Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve is a vibrant green oasis of biodiversity—the pride and joy of ecotourism in Costa Rica. As clouds weave through the canopy, towering trees draped in moss, delicate orchids, and cascading ferns create a lush, otherworldly landscape. We were excited for the opportunity to cool down in this serene atmosphere at an altitude of about 1500 meters above sea level and on the continental divide.

Nature’s Awakening: An Early Morning Hike Amongst the Clouds

There’s something magical about stepping into the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve at dawn, just as the animals are beginning to awaken. We arrived early to secure a parking spot and began our hike right at 7 a.m. when the park opened.

The morning mist clung to the treetops, and the air was crisp, cool, and still. The earthy scent of damp moss and fresh leaves surrounded us, while droplets of dew shimmered like jewels on the vibrantly colorful flowers. As we walked, sunlight filtered through the dense foliage, casting a soft glow on the winding trails. As the forest slowly came to life, the melodic calls of exotic birds echoed through the canopy, and adorable Coatamundis (Costa Rica’s version of raccoons) scurried by.

I closed my eyes, trying to commit to memory this truly magical symphony the forest was orchestrating. Birdsongs intertwined in melody, the resplendent quetzal’s flute-like whistle claiming its solo notes among the chatter of toucans and hummingbirds. In the distance, the guttural roar of howler monkeys created an energetic baseline. The rustling of leaves and the soft patter of falling droplets from the mist joined together in a rhythmic backdrop. Occasionally, the gentle hum of insects or the croak of a tree frog punctuated the air like a trumpet. This layered soundscape—both spirited and serene—invited us to pause, listen, and fully immerse ourselves in the heartbeat of the cloud forest.

Our Route Through the Forest

We hiked most of the reserve’s ‘Senderos’ (which translates to ‘paths’ in English), starting with Nubloso to reach the viewpoint at La Ventana. From there, we returned to Camino, followed by Puente to visit the hanging bridge, then continued along Wilford Guindon, Tosi, and Cuecha to the waterfall, before heading back to the park’s main office. The trails are very well maintained, and the signage is excellent, so it’s easy to find your way around.

Sendero Nubloso (1125 m) took us to the viewpoint of the Continental Divide, where we could see both the Pacific and Caribbean. This path turned into Sendero la Ventana (305 m), which had incredible views as we peeked through the side of the trail to look over the entire cloud forest reserve!

We hiked Sendero Camino for about 300 meters before turning onto Sendero Roble and heading 100 meters up a steep incline with steps, and then turning onto Sendero Puente to visit the hanging bridge. Since we were hiking so early in the morning, we were thankfully able to experience walking across the bridge alone. It was a neat spot to capture photos and take a much-needed break.

After crossing the bridge, we continued onto Sendero Wilford Guindon (970 m)—we chose this trail since it’s the fastest route to the waterfall, connecting with Sendero Tosi (660 m). There’s a huge ficus tree on the side of the path, which was another fun stop. Finally, we connected with Sendero Cuecha, which led us to the waterfall after about 500 meters.

During our walk out of the park, we stumbled upon a black-handed spider monkey. Before long, it turned into a shared experience—when one camera points upward, others quickly follow, hoping to catch the same view. At times, it felt as though the monkey was fully aware of its audience, playfully engaging with us. It would pause mid-movement, striking a pose as if inviting our cameras to capture its best angle. With each curious glance and nimble leap, it seemed to revel in the attention, making the moment even more memorable.

Visiting the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve was an unforgettable highlight of our time in Costa Rica. Wandering through the misty trails, surrounded by towering trees and vibrant greenery, felt like stepping into a world untouched by time.

📍 If you’re up for a challenge, keep your eyes peeled for the rare Resplendent Quetzal hiding amidst the trees. Found only in the cloud forests of Central America, the quetzal was once revered as a god by the Aztecs. It’s renowned for its stunning, colorful feathers and shy nature. Though I didn’t get to capture great photos, we were lucky enough to spot multiple quetzals during our stay in Monteverde.

The Hummingbird Gallery: A Whirl of Color in Monteverde

Located just outside the entrance to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, the Hummingbird Gallery is an unexpected spot where you can get up close with these dazzling, fast-moving birds. I wasn’t expecting this experience to be quite so mesmerizing. With dozens of feeders attracting a vibrant variety of species, we saw emerald-green violet sabrewings, fiery-throated hummingbirds, and delicate purple-crowned fairies, to name a few species. The air was humming with the sound of their wings.

Discovering Downtown Monteverde: A Cozy Mountain Escape

Downtown Monteverde is a charming and laid-back mountain town, offering a perfect blend of local culture and eco-tourism. Set against the misty backdrop of the cloud forest, you can browse for handcrafted souvenirs at artisan shops, savor locally grown coffee, and enjoy delicious meals at family-owned cafés. The town’s welcoming atmosphere is enriched by its commitment to sustainability and conservation.

Strolling through Monteverde, you can’t help but pause and admire the vibrant murals that add a splash of color to the cool mountain landscape. Each mural tells a story— a tribute to the local environment, a celebration of indigenous heritage, or an expression of the town’s artistic spirit.

🦥 One of the fun ‘I Spy’ games we played throughout our road trip was spotting sloths in the local murals, shop logos, products, and business names. Beyond their adorable, slow-moving charm, sloths play a vital role in Costa Rica’s ecosystems and symbolize the country’s commitment to biodiversity and conservation.

Savoring Monteverde: Where to Eat in the Cloud Forest

Whether you’re craving a hearty meal after an adventure in the mountains, a sweet treat while exploring the town, or a coffee pick-me-up, Monteverde has you covered. We had great meals during our stay, all of them unique and tasty.

Our favorite breakfast spot, which we visited multiple times, was Café Orquídeas (Orchid Coffee & Restaurant). Opening at 7 a.m., it was the perfect place to kickstart an activity-packed day. With its laid-back atmosphere—complete with adorable sleeping pups—we cherished our early mornings sipping on their coffee milkshakes and savoring their delicious food.

For lunch, check out Taco Taco Monteverde for unique versions of classic Mexican flavors—good vibes, great food, and friendly service.

For ‘Tico time’ (happy hour) or dinner with sunset views from an open-air deck, try Hotel Belmar’s Celajes Restaurant, which offers farm-to-table cuisine that will truly surprise you. Priding itself on sustainability, the majority of the ingredients are sourced from the hotel’s organic farm right next door. After our meal, we returned the next day to tour the beautiful grounds. The walking trails and lake on the property were great for observing wildlife, including exotic birds, frogs, dragonflies, and a curious snake hiding in the lush foliage.

Stella’s Café Monteverde is a cozy, family-owned dining spot with a lovely ambiance, featuring a beautiful patio and garden that attracts plenty of birds who stop by to snack on the fruits left out by the restaurant staff. When I saw that one of their specialties was the ‘Aligned Tortilla’—a palm tortilla with corn flour, gouda cheese, fresh farm cheese, and cheddar, accompanied by custard from their farm—I had to try it. As it sounds, it’s essentially a plate of cheese. YUM!

Just across the road is Café Monteverde, a coffee shop where you can get caffeinated, buy a bag of beans to bring home, or even take a farm tour of the sustainable coffee plantation. Also nearby, Monteverde Wholefoods is a locally-loved spot offering a variety of organic and sustainably sourced products, including locally grown fruits and vegetables, artisanal cheeses, homemade breads, and a selection of natural health products.

Photos by me with some contributions from my hubby, Ronnie Polidoro.