Europe’s Last Wild Monkeys: Barbary Macaques at the Rock of Gibraltar

January 12, 2015

While traveling in southern Spain, I took a last-minute day trip to Gibraltar with very little expectation of what I would discover there.

Located at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula on the coast of Spain, Gibraltar is part of a British Overseas Territory near the exit of the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean. The city wraps around “the Rock,” a 1,398 ft high monolithic limestone mountain, which dominates the landscape.

Serving as an impenetrable fortress, the rock contains a labyrinthine network of man-made tunnels known as the “Tunnels of Gibraltar,” which were constructed over about 200 years by the British Army, beginning in the late 18th century. By the 20th century, the Rock had been turned into a huge underground fortress capable of accommodating 16,000 men along with all the supplies, ammunition, and equipment they needed to withstand a prolonged siege.

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Stumbling Upon the Barbary Macaques

I journeyed through the tunnels, finding my way around every twist and turn, and finally made it to the top of the Rock. Little did I know that waiting for me there was a group of Barbary macaques or “rock apes”. The tailless monkey troop was ready and waiting to steal my camera, snacks, and anything else I carried with me. I was thankfully successful at fending them off and took a break in the nature preserve to watch them wrestle and play until they themselves needed a break and laid about preening one another in search for parasites.

Barbary macaques are an ape species native to the Atlas Mountains of Algeria, Tunisia and Morocco. Their name refers to the Barbary coast of North West Africa. No one is quite sure how they got to Gibraltar, but they were likely brought either by the Arab or Barbary Pirates sometime after 711CE or the British after 1704, according to Brittanica. Once widespread in Europe as far north as England, today the Gibraltar population, about 250 total, consists of Europe’s only free-living monkeys.

I sat still long enough to see the apes begin to relax in my company. I hadn’t seen anyone else on the hike up the Rock, so I wasn’t expecting additional visitors. A mother began to nurse her baby as a male, who seemed to be the father based on his protective hover, delicately groomed her. The baby’s clear eyes took in the surroundings, locking glances with me every minute or two.

A sound far off in the distance spooked one of the macaques, and suddenly it was back to chaotic business. Some marked their territory by walking along the rock walls, while others, who were less disturbed, took the opportunity to take an afternoon siesta.

Visiting the Rock

While I do recommend a visit to this unique destination, it is imperative that you be respectful to the apes during your time at the Rock. While the population appears stable, the species is endangered and on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, mainly due to the loss of habitat. Additionally, competing for territory with the around 1,000 tourists who visit daily poses problems. People often bring junk food, causing risk of obesity for the apes.

The Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society (GONHS) and the Gibraltar Veterinary Clinic (GVC) provide food, veterinary care, and other support to the troops. They live in groups of 25–70 in different parts of the Upper Rock, including The Ape’s Den at Queen’s Gate.